Sub Zero Performance Fabrics & Technology
Unlike many outdoor clothing brands that design garments around readily available fabrics, Sub Zero has a long history of textile engineering and developing fabrics specifically for the performance required from our clothing.
Our experience in knitting, fabric construction and garment manufacture allows us to consider the complete system — from yarn and fabric structure through to moisture management, insulation, stretch, durability and the construction of the finished garment.
Different Sub Zero ranges use different fabric technologies according to their intended activity and level of protection.
All Active
All Active is our lightweight performance fabric designed for highly aerobic activities and warmer conditions.
The fabric is produced using 100% polyamide yarn on electronic circular knitting machinery. Different machine diameters are used for different garment sizes, allowing us to produce garments without conventional side seams.
Computer-controlled needle selection also enables different structures to be knitted directly into the garment. These include mesh zones in areas of high perspiration and rib structures positioned around major muscle groups.
The resulting fabric is soft, lightweight and fast drying.
A hydrophilic treatment helps moisture spread through the fabric, assisting its movement away from the skin and increasing the surface area from which it can evaporate.
Cool-T
Cool-T was developed as a lightweight fabric for aerobic activity and warm conditions.
It uses two polyester fabrics that are knitted independently before being joined together. The construction is designed to retain relatively little heat while helping move perspiration away from the skin.
A hydrophilic treatment assists moisture movement, while the bi-component construction uses an outer fabric with a greater surface area than the inner fabric.
This helps moisture spread across the outer surface, increasing the area available for evaporation. Body heat can then assist the evaporation process, helping the wearer remain more comfortable during activity.
Factor 1 – Legacy Fabric
Factor 1 was one of our original lightweight thermal base-layer fabrics.
Manufactured from 100% polyamide yarn, it was knitted as a soft tubular rib fabric weighing approximately 175g/m².
Its construction provided considerable stretch in both directions, allowing the garment to fit closely to a wide range of body shapes. A hydrophilic treatment was incorporated during the dyeing process to assist moisture management.
Unfortunately, changes within the UK textile supply chain mean that we can no longer source this particular fabric to the specification required. Factor 1 has therefore been superseded within our current base-layer ranges.
Factor 1 Eco
Factor 1 Eco is a lightweight thermal base-layer fabric developed using a blend of natural and recycled fibres.
The fabric is made from:
- 44% bamboo viscose
- 31% recycled polyester
- 13% merino wool
- 12% elastane
Unlike our seamless tubular base-layer fabrics, Factor 1 Eco is knitted open width before being cut and sewn into the finished garments at our factory in Leicestershire.
The combination of fibres has been selected to balance comfort, stretch and performance. Bamboo viscose and merino wool provide a soft feel next to the skin, recycled polyester contributes to the performance and durability of the fabric, while elastane provides the stretch and recovery required from a close-fitting base layer.
Factor 1 Eco also demonstrates that there isn't a single ideal fabric construction for every Sub Zero garment. We develop and select different yarn blends, fabric structures and manufacturing techniques according to the performance required from the finished product.
Factor 1 Plus
Factor 1 Plus builds on our experience with lightweight thermal base layers using a more advanced seamless construction.
The range is knitted using 100% polyamide yarn on electronic circular knitting machinery similar to that used for our All Active range.
Its construction and increased fabric weight provide greater insulation than our original Factor 1 fabric while retaining the close-fitting stretch required from a technical base layer.
The knitting process also allows us to incorporate features directly into the garment, including stretch rib structures around major muscle groups and targeted mesh zones to assist moisture management.
Factor 2
Factor 2 is our established thermal mid-layer fabric, developed to provide insulation while retaining stretch and freedom of movement.
It is manufactured from 94% polyester and 6% spandex, providing stability, stretch and recovery.
The tubular plush construction produces a double-sided fabric. The inside face is heavily brushed to create a microfleece surface and then tip-sheared for uniformity.
This structure creates numerous small spaces within the fabric that trap insulating air close to the body.
Factor 2 is knitted to a finished weight of approximately 225g/m².
Factor 2 Plus
Factor 2 Plus is designed for situations where greater insulation and protection are required. Fabrics within this range use heavier constructions than standard Factor 2.
One construction uses 93% polyester and 7% spandex to provide stability, stretch and recovery. Like Factor 2, it has a double-sided tubular plush construction with a heavily brushed microfleece inner face.
This fabric is knitted to approximately 276g/m².
We have also used a more durable Factor 2 Plus construction containing 50% polyamide, 41% polyester and 9% spandex. This combines the insulating brushed construction with increased polyamide content for durability.
Because different Factor 2 Plus garments may use different fabric constructions, always check the technical information on the individual product listing for the specification of the garment you are considering.
Meraklon
Our Meraklon fabric is a tubular interlock fabric manufactured from 100% polypropylene.
The inner face is brushed to provide a soft fleece surface next to the body, while the fabric is knitted to a finished weight of approximately 200g/m².
Polypropylene is naturally hydrophobic, meaning that the fibre absorbs very little moisture. This makes it particularly useful in performance clothing where moisture management and quick drying are important.
Factor 3
Factor 3 garments have been produced using two different heavyweight fleece constructions.
Factor 3 Polyamide
Factor 3 Polyamide is a double-sided plush fabric manufactured from 100% polyamide yarn.
Both faces are heavily brushed to create an exceptionally thick fleece structure. A hydrophilic treatment assists moisture movement, while the outer surface has also been produced with treatments designed to improve resistance to water, dirt, oil and staining.
Factor 3 Polyester
Factor 3 Polyester is manufactured from 100% polyester fleece at approximately 300g/m².
The outer face has an anti-pill finish to help maintain its appearance, while the inside is heavily brushed to provide a soft and insulating surface next to the body.
The combination produces a warm, durable fleece suitable for cold-weather use.
Softshell
Our softshell fabric construction combines two woven fabrics, each manufactured from 97% polyester and 3% elastane.
The outer surface has a soft, peached finish, while the inside uses a microfleece finish to provide additional insulation.
A breathable membrane bonds the layers together, creating a fabric designed to combine weather protection, insulation, stretch and moisture management.
Individual product specifications should always be checked for the precise performance and construction of a particular garment.
Fabric Treatments
Fabric construction is only one part of developing performance clothing. Specialist treatments can also be used to modify characteristics such as moisture movement, water repellency, odour control and static build-up.
The way treatments are applied varies according to the fibre, fabric and finishing process being used.
Where a particular treatment is relevant to a current Sub Zero garment, details will be shown in the technical information on the individual product listing.
Hydrophilic Treatments
Hydrophilic literally means “water loving”.
In performance fabrics, hydrophilic treatments are used to encourage moisture to move and spread through or across the material.
Increasing the area over which perspiration spreads can help moisture move away from the skin and provide a greater surface area for evaporation.
This principle is used in a number of Sub Zero performance fabrics to assist moisture management without significantly changing the feel of the material.
Hydrophobic Treatments
Hydrophobic means “water repelling” or, literally, “water hating”.
Hydrophobic fibres and treatments resist interaction with water. Depending on the particular application, this property can be useful for reducing moisture absorption or improving the water repellency of a fabric.
Hydrophobic should not, however, automatically be interpreted as waterproof. The waterproof performance of a garment depends on its complete construction, which can include the fabric, membrane, coatings, seams and garment design.
Antimicrobial Treatments
Antimicrobial treatments can be used in performance textiles to help control the growth of microorganisms associated with unwanted odours.
This can be particularly useful in garments designed for prolonged or high-intensity activity.
The properties and performance of individual treatments vary, so any treatment used in a current Sub Zero product will be identified in the relevant product information where applicable.
Anti-Mosquito Treatments
Some performance fabrics can be treated with insect-repellent or insecticidal technologies designed to provide additional protection from biting insects.
One treatment historically used in outdoor textiles is permethrin, a synthetic pyrethroid.
Where Sub Zero clothing incorporates a specialist insect-protection treatment, the treatment and relevant product information will be stated on the individual product listing.
Fabric treatments should form part of a wider insect-protection strategy appropriate to the destination and conditions.
Anti-Static Treatments
Synthetic fabrics can accumulate static electrical charge.
For most everyday clothing this may simply be inconvenient, but controlling static can be particularly important in certain industrial, technical and military applications.
Anti-static treatments are designed to increase the electrical conductivity of the material and thereby reduce the accumulation of static charge.
Water, Dirt and Stain-Repellent Finishes
Some Sub Zero fabrics have historically used specialist surface treatments to improve resistance to water, dirt, oil and staining.
The precise treatments available to the textile industry change over time as technologies, environmental requirements and regulations develop.
For this reason, rather than assuming that a historic treatment or brand name is used on a current garment, check the technical specification on the individual product page for the treatments used on that particular product.
More Than Just a Fabric
The performance of outdoor clothing isn't determined by fibre content alone.
Yarn selection, knitting structure, fabric weight, brushing, finishing, garment construction and fit can all influence how a garment performs.
This is why two garments both labelled “100% polyester” or “100% polyamide” can behave very differently in use.
Our background in textile engineering and UK clothing manufacture allows us to consider these elements together when developing Sub Zero clothing.
For the exact fabric composition, treatments and technical features of a particular garment, always refer to the Technical information on its individual product listing.
